European Vegetarian Union

written/translated by: Ciarán Reilly

Phuket Vegetarian Festival: September 26 - October 5, 2003


According to legend, a Chinese opera group fell ill while performing on the island. All members of the company then followed a vegetarian diet in honour of Chinese gods and to purify mind and body. So the return of their health was also the birth of the Vegetarian Festival, taking place since then on every 9th Chinese lunar month and meant to honour the gods and to bring good luck to individuals and the community.

In order to take part in this festival promoting good hygiene, brightness and inner peace, one is requested to adhere to ten rules:

  1. Cleanliness of body during the festival
  2. To clean kitchen utensils and use them separately from others who do not join the festival
  3. Wear white during the festival
  4. Good behaviour physically and mentally (no lying or uncharitable thoughts)
  5. No meat eating (no killing of animals)
  6. No sex
  7. No alcoholic drinks
  8. People in mourning should not attend the festival
  9. Pregnant ladies should not watch any ritual
  10. Ladies with periods should not attend the ritual.

The devotees whom the gods enter during the festival are called 'Ma Song'. They will, once in a trance, manifest supernatural powers and rub boiling oil on their bodies or pierce their flesh, usually their faces, with knives, metal rods or sharp instruments without pain and only minor blood loss.

For the faint-hearted the sight of someone walking the city streets with rods of wood or steel through both cheeks does take some getting used to. Disciples follow the ‘Ma Song’ from temple to temple, making donations and worshiping Chinese Gods. Some people say that the Chinese Gods are angry because money is not used to embellish temples but instead spent to build hotels, bars, discotheques, and massage lounges.

However, the local Chinese/Thai communities continue to believe in the benevolence of the gods and bring their personal household gods to the candle-lit temples, along with offerings. They hope that the household gods will absorb the spiritual energy filling the temples at that particular point in time.

Throughout the festival street processions take place and drums are sounded. The louder they are, the better because noise drives evil spirits away. Another fascinating aspect is the sight of crowds of local people in a trance running over burning coals or climbing ladders with knifeedged rungs.

Most of all it is firecrackers and fireworks which play an important role during these special days. They are sold along the routes to the most important shrines and because not everyone is familiar with these particular “party-elements”, the authorities had to issue warnings in order to prevent large number of people getting hurt and ending up in hospital - as has happened in recent years.

But it is not only the sound of drums and the rich colour of tradition, which fascinates participants and tourists but also culinary vegetarian delights which are available at street stalls and markets during this particular period.

The festival ends with special temple-rites and the send-off of the gods on the last night. It goes without saying that the fireworks are at their most impressive at that closing ceremony which certainly is an unforgettable experience for all participants and visitors.

Herma Caelen


Links:
Tourism Authority of Thailand: http://www.tourismthailand.org
Programme 2003: http://www.phukettourism.org/festival/vegetarian/01.htm

 


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